Amarnath Yatra Unveiled: A Pilgrimage Routes to the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam

 

Amidst the lofty Himalayan peaks, nestled in the northernmost region of India, lies a place of profound religious significance and natural beauty—Amarnath. This sacred destination, often referred to as the “Abode of Lord Shiva,” has been a site of deep reverence and devotion for centuries. A large community of devotees flock to Kashmir, where there is a religious belief that Lord Shiva appears in the form of a linga made of snow during the month of Shravan in a natural cave at an altitude of about 13,500 feet in the Himalayan mountains. The annual Amarnath Yatra is a spiritual journey that attracts thousands of pilgrims from across the globe. In this article, we will unveil the mystical allure of Amarnath Yatra, explore its history and routes, and guide you through the awe-inspiring pilgrimage to the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam.

The Divine Ice Shiva Lingam: A Brief Introduction

The focal point of the Amarnath Yatra is the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam, a natural ice formation that holds immense religious significance for Hindus. It is believed to represent Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities in Hinduism. The lingam, which forms naturally over the years, waxes and wanes with the phases of the moon, showcasing a remarkable transformation. Pilgrims believe that witnessing this enigmatic ice lingam is an embodiment of divinity and a blessing in itself.

A Glimpse into the History

The history of the Amarnath Yatra dates back to ancient times. According to legend, it was Lord Shiva himself who revealed the secrets of immortality and creation to his consort, Goddess Parvati, in the secluded caves of Amarnath. These caves have since become the holiest of shrines for Shiva devotees. Pilgrims embark on a challenging journey to seek blessings from the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam and pay homage to Lord Shiva.

Lord Shiva wears a ‘Mundmala‘ (garland made of skulls) around his neck. Once, his wife, Goddess Parvati, questioned Lord Shiva to know the reason behind this. In reply, Lord Shiva said that for every reincarnation of Goddess Parvati, he adds one ‘Mund’ (skull) to his garland. Hearing this, the goddess had another question: if she herself had to be born again and again, then why not Lord Shiva himself? Why is he immortal? The secret of this was in an immortal story, which, if told to the Goddess Parvati, could also free her from the cycle of birth and death. Devi insisted on listening to the Amarkatha (the story of immortality). Shiva-Parvati proceeded by way of Pahalgam in search of an inaccessible place so that the story of the immortality offering would not fall to anyone else’s ears.

On the way, one by one, they left their colleagues. Like Belgaon (today’s Pahalgam), the place where Nandi was released Chandanwadi, the place where Shiva released the moon from his jata. Sheshnag, the place where the snakes living around the neck of Lord Shiva were freed; Panchtarani, the place where the five essential elements of life were placed; and finally, the place where the beloved son Ganesha was left, is Mahaganesh (or Mahagunas) Peak.

After crossing all these places, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati proceeded and then settled in a huge cave. Placing a seat in the cave, Lord Shiva took a seat and created Kaal-agni to ensure that no living being was present on all sides. As the legend says, there were pigeon eggs in the cave when the fire was ignited, but as it was under Mahadeva’s seat, Kalagni could not touch them. Along with Goddess Parvati, pigeons are also believed to have attained immortality since the story of immortality was listened to by them as well.

The Journey Begins: Preparing for Amarnath Yatra

Amarnath, the cave described in mythology as the place where the ice Shivling formed itself, became important as a place of pilgrimage. Due to the extremely cold season throughout the year, the entire area, including the cave, is covered in heavy snow. The trip is organized from June to August, when the weather becomes favorable. However, the boards of Amarnath Darshan are hung in front of the tourism organizations from January on wards, and the reservation of trains to Jammu starts getting faster.

Evolution of Amarnath Yatra: From Rawalpindi to Jammu and Beyond

Before independence, there was a path to Amarnath Cave from Rawalpindi (present-day Pakistan). Amarnath has become an important pilgrimage center since Jammu, near the Tawi River, was connected to the major cities of the country by rail in 1975 AD. The base camp for the pilgrimage is at ‘Bhagwati Nagar Yatrinivas’, just fifteen minutes from Jammu. During the days of June to August, millions of devotees chant ‘Shiv Shankar’ all over Jammu, as if there is no night. The traveler breathes a sigh of relief only after booking a bus or taxi from Jammu to reach the destination of Baltal or Pahalgam. Pahalgam is also a gorgeous place to add to the must-see list.

Due to some terrorist incidents in the past, the entire route of Amarnath is being monitored by armed personnel of our security establishment. After the prescribed number of vehicles have reached Jammu, the sky echoes with the thunderous chants of ‘Bam Bam Bhole’ and ‘Barfani Baba Ki Jai’ as the convoy of devotees is dispatched to Srinagar with tight security by Border Security Force BSF personnel.

About 275 kilometers long from Jammu to Srinagar, the initial 200 kilometers of the route travel between mountain slopes, while the rest of the journey from Qazigund to Srinagar is almost plain. During the journey, one gets the benefit of enjoying the beauty of small springs, the Chenab, and the Himalayan Mountains. Srinagar, Pahalgam or Baltal can be reached in about 8 hours by private or shared taxis and government buses.

The root is more popular from Baltal for Amarnath Yatra as one can visit and return in a day, but the road is narrow, slippery, and steep. Another road is towards Pahalgam. Which is more spacious and comfortable. A journey started in Pahalgam is completed in almost 5 days. During which one has to cross steep peaks like Mahaganesh peak Most of the pilgrims start their journey from Pahalgam and return via Baltal.

There are Two options for Amarnath Yatra

Route no. 1: Pahalgam to Amarnath

The road from Pahalgam to Chandanwadi at a distance of 15 km, is motorable. Passengers get ready to reach Chandanwadi in the early morning by private or government vehicles. Here, essential items are available, including warm clothes, gloves, a woolen cap, an umbrella, a poncho, and a stick. Besides, the stalls selling things like Rudraksha garlands, trishuls, damru, etc. give the place a fair atmosphere. Amidst the foggy atmosphere, the sounds of ‘Bam Bam Bhole’ and ‘Barfani Baba Ki Jai’ could be heard all around, while somewhere eager to graze, the pithus and horse owners kept echoing in the deafened ears. Many people opt for horses and palanquins to reach the cave, while most travel on foot.

As soon as verification, like a security check in Chandanwadi, date mentioned in the permit, and the route of the journey are completed, the Amarnath Yatra starts parallel to the lively Liddar River along with loud slogans. The Liddar River is the main source of drinking and agricultural water for the Kashmiris living in the Liddar Valley. It is formed by the melting of the ice of the Sheshnag Glacier at an altitude of about 4,400 meters and the Kolahoi Glacier at an altitude of 4,700 meters.

The morning is pleasant in the mountains with green forests. In addition, since the first day of the journey is flat and some of the initial road is flat, it is natural to have speed in the walk and joy in the mind! But the pace gets slow as the gradual ascent begins. As the breath begins to be heavy, one has to take a break after a few steps of walking. While standing on a stick or sitting on a bench while getting tired, the background of the gray sky with the glaciers, white sheets of snow, greenery at some places, etc. all create the illusion of looking at an oil painting of natural beauty hanging on the wall. If such a beautiful sight keeps instilling freshness in the body, the cries of ‘Bam Bam Bhole‘ and ‘Barfani Baba Ki Jai’ will give strength to carry on the journey.

After some distance comes a valley known as Pissu Ghati. It is said for this place that Shiva himself killed the Asuras when the battle between the gods and demons turned into a fierce fight over who would be the first to see Lord Shiva. Their bones were crushed and chopped. The tall rock that became the bone came to be known as Pissu. Pilgrims realize the importance of physical fitness while climbing the 11,000-foot Pissu Top, as the steep climb leaves most people breathless and feeling tired.

After Pissu Top, there is no idea when the tree line thins and disappears, as if the mountains have been shaved. In cold weather, some pilgrims keep up their courage by chanting ‘Om Nam: Shivay’, while others, at regular intervals, do loud chanting. Stoles along the way have facilities for tea, snacks, meals, and rest. By four o’clock in the evening, the first camp is reached at Sheshnag. There are facilities including hot drinking water, electricity, medicines, a post office, and a bank. The overnight stay is done in a lakeside tent. Looking at the pilgrims dancing to the tune of bhajans in Sheshnag’s Bhandara, it seems that from where did they get so much energy in their bodies after walking all day? Perhaps it will be the awe of the ethereal beauty of the Himalayas, along with the joy of reaching the first camp.

The 1.5 km long and 1.2 km wide Sheshnag Lake and Sheshnag Mountain at an altitude of 11,712 feet above sea level are the attractions of the first camp of the trek. The joy of watching the reflection of the changing mood of the sky in the clear waters of the lake at dusk is indescribable. A sudden turn in the weather creates a wonderful sight of icy water falling into the Sheshnag Lake when the atmosphere is covered with thick fog. Here, when the temperature dips below zero at night, many tourists who spend the night in tents stumble even with blankets, but the monks wearing dhoti and wrapped in a normal shawl blowing the chilam did not seem to be affected by the cold! It is common for them to stretch out under the open sky.

The next day, after covering a distance of five kilometers to reach Panchtarani, crossing the 14,500-foot-high Mahaganesh (Mahagunas) peak is a physical test. A dose of rejuvenation can be received while enjoying breathtaking views of the mountains and the valley from this lofty height.

Proceeding the journey from Mahaganesh, ‘Poshapatri’ is the center of attraction, with a vast array of delicious dishes of custom. After having food here, the onward journey has to be on a generally steep and somewhat level road. A fun element mixed into the Amarnath Yatra is the sudden change in weather. You never know when an army of clouds will appear in the brown sky and cover the sun. A scene that looked colorful moments ago suddenly seems to have turned black and white. A shower of rain may add more freshness and coolness to the atmosphere, making the hill trip enjoyable.

After completing a distance of eight kilometers full of adventure at a height of fourteen and a half thousand feet, the next day’s camp site, Panchtarani is reached. Due to the high altitude, many pilgrims experience problems like dizziness, vomiting, or heaviness of the head. BSF personnel and medical services get immediate help. Even after sleeping in the tent at night, thoughts of seeing Baba Amarnath in the morning and the excitement of the excitement does not allow to sleep soon.

The distance between the holy caves and Panchtarani is only six kilometers, and the journey initially involves some gentle climbing. At one or two places, there were sharp and narrow turns, so everyone has to be cautious. However, only BSF personnel regulate human traffic at such places. After seeing the Baba Amarnath cave from about three kilometers away, the devotees shout, ‘Barfani Baba ki jai’ makes the sky thunder. A little further, the road coming from Baltal joins at Sangam. Also, people arriving by helicopter are being dropped off at the Sangam, causing a huge crowd and commotion. You have to leave early in the morning after having breakfast in time so that the return journey can also be started through Baltal on time.

At a height of about 13,800 feet, a rustic fare-like scene is seen a short distance before the holy Amarnath Cave. The road becomes really colorful due to flowers, garlands, prasad, and many other items, including saffron, shilajit, colorful pendants hanging from pots and tents of saffron, and brownish yellow light coming from tents. As luggage like bags or cameras is prohibited in the cave, arrangements are also made to place luggage in hats (along with taking prasad). If some people want to take a bath before darshan, hot water is available by paying a fixed fee.

About 150 feet high and 90 feet long, a 10 to 16-foot icy Shivlinga, two other ice formations can be seen on either side of it, which are believed by devotees to be symbols of Ganesha and Parvati. According to folklore, the Shivlinga of ice fluctuates according to the lunar cycle. It means that on the day of the full moon, when it reaches its full size or later, its size gradually decreases. However, now a transparent plastic curtain is placed between the Shivling and the visitors as the body heat of the human body melts the ice.

After the darshan of Shivling in Amarnath Cave, one can return by way of Baltal. As the evenings in the mountains are beautiful, they also become rainy at times. However, it is considered advisable for the elderly and those with a history of general illness to take the wide path of Pahalgam.

Route no. 2: Baltal to Amarnath

The trek from Baltal to Baba Amarnath Cave is about 18 kilometers. As in Pahalgam, bursting with devotion echoing with irrepressible enthusiasm and Baba Barfani’s chants, the parallel travel to Sindhnala starts early in the morning. After about 2 km comes the barrier of the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF) at Domel, which can be crossed only on the date mentioned in the permit. After crossing the barrier, palanquins and porters are found, but further on the roads are narrow and forbidden for ponies.

This route is towards the back of Pahalgam. From the point of view of beauty, one can enjoy picturesque views and beautiful waterfalls here. However, due to the slippery glacier snow and extremely narrow trails, one has to be very careful as the crowd builds up quickly. After reaching a place called ‘Railpatri’ on this route, the presence of trees becomes sparse. Further, after Barari, two roads lead to the cave, the more used of which meets at a place called Sangam, three kilometers before the cave. Bypassing the confluence, the road going up for another two kilometers leads directly to the cave. As it is more difficult, very few travelers use it. One thing to note is that the route to Baltal has steeper ascents and descents than the route towards Chandanwadi.

After seeing the Amarnath Caves and the holy Shivling, the pilgrim can return by way of Pahalgam or Baltal. Most devotees traveling from Pahalgam prefer to return via Baltal, as the journey can be completed in a single day. Arrangements have also been made to stay in tents near the cave itself after darshan, but most people do not stay. Everyone is in a hurry to get back quickly. As if the peace enjoyed so far suddenly turns into a frenzy of violence.

Spiritual gurus give an interesting explanation about the places on the way to Pahalgam, saying that Nandi symbolizes the desires of the mind. Since desires are an obstacle to attaining moksha, pilgrims should leave desires at Belgaon, i.e., Pahalgam. The moon and serpent are the symbols of the human mind and ego, respectively. One should get rid of them at Chandanwadi and Sheshnag. The way of Moksha is to give up the fascination of life; hence, it should be abandoned in Panchtarani. Spiritual gurus believe that the devotee who gives up all this experiences inner peace and energy. It is their belief that the lines of happiness and peace seen on the face of a meditative Shiva shine on the face of a devotee as well. However, as soon as he reaches Baltal, a feeling naturally arises on the face of the pilgrim: the self-satisfaction of a successful journey!

Security and Sacrifice: Safeguarding the Amarnath Yatra

The holy cave of Amarnath and the vast area around it remain covered under heavy snow even after the end of winter. A few months before the Yatra, the Border Security Force/BSF personnel get busy clearing the road by moving snow. In some places, they cut up to twenty feet of snow to make way!

Every caravan of tourists going for the Amarnath Yatra gets a security of BSF. The convoy preceded by a pilot motorcycle equipped with a camera, whose driver is in constant touch with the BSF control post. Security personnel sitting in the control center view the footage from tiny cameras mounted on riders’ helmets or motorcycles on their screens. Hence, if there is a terrorist attack on the convoy, it is immediately reported to the control post. Also, as each vehicle is equipped with an electronic chip, its location and speed are continuously monitored by the BSF throughout the journey.

From the beginning to the end of this journey, countless BSF troops camped in tents at various locations. They often face cold rains and snowfalls. As there is always a fear of terrorist attacks, they have to make their positions in high and strategic places and stay awake all day long. The duty of soldiers is not only to provide security to the devotees, but they often have to rush to the passenger’s aid for physical safety. Most people’s physical fitness is put to the test while crossing high mountains. Dizziness, shortness of breath, lack of water in the body, fatigue in the muscles of the arms and legs The experienced eye of the soldiers on duty can spot such symptoms in an instant. If necessary, the traveler is carried on his back to the tent to provide medical treatment and is given massage that improves blood circulation. Devotees also do not miss to appreciate Baba’s Jai Ghosh chants of ‘Bharat Matani Jai‘ and ‘Jawaan Hamari Shaan Hai, Tabhi To Yatra Asan Hai’.

The Spiritual Experience

The Amarnath Yatra is not just a physical journey; it is a spiritual odyssey. Pilgrims trek through challenging terrain, often enduring extreme weather conditions, to reach the holy cave. Along the way, they engage in devotional practices, singing hymns and chanting “Har Har Mahadev” to seek Lord Shiva’s blessings.

The Divine Encounter

Reaching the Amarnath cave, pilgrims are greeted by the awe-inspiring sight of the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam. The atmosphere is charged with spirituality as devotees offer their prayers and immerse themselves in the divine aura. The experience is both humbling and exhilarating, as pilgrims feel the presence of Lord Shiva in the heart of the Himalayas.

Science Behind the Formation of the Amarnath Cave Ice Shivlinga

The formation of the ice Shivalinga in the Amarnath cave is indeed a matter of faith, but as far as science is concerned, it is a natural phenomenon. The column formed due to the water salts dripping from the rocks of the cave gradually solidifying in an upward direction is called stalagmite in English. Such a pillar in Amarnath cave is formed by freezing water droplets at sub-zero temperature, which we spiritually call Shivlinga. But such formations are not limited to Amarnath Cave. Ice columns are formed naturally in many other places in the world. One such place is Mendel Hall Ice Cave in the state of Alaska, USA. Dobis Cave in Slovakia, a European country declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has tens of ice pillars in the shape of Shivlinga. Even in the Icerisenwelt, a 42-km-long ice cave in the European country of Austria nestled in the glaciers of the Alps (see the picture), Shivlinga-shaped pillars are formed automatically, which is visited by 2,00,000 people a year.

The fact that the Shivlinga’s ice is solid and hard compared to the raw ice that crumbles everywhere around is enough for the devotees to appreciate the historical references associated with the Amarnath Caves, the internal water sources gushing water, and the raw ice that crumbles everywhere around. Scientists believe that the Ramkund above the cave may be the source of water here, and the lime mixed with the cave water is an important contributor to the construction of the solid Shivalinga.

Good To Know

When visiting the Amarnath Cave in India, which is a significant Hindu pilgrimage site, there are several important points to know and take care of to ensure a safe and meaningful journey:

Correct time in year: The Yatra dates are announced every year by the Amarnathji Shrine Board. Yatra is mostly organized from June to August. The Shrine Board has announced a total of 56 days from June 28 to August 22 for this year’s yatra.

Transportation: The nearest airport is Sheikh ul Alam in Srinagar, which is 90 km from Pahalgam and 115 km from Baltal. Private taxis are available from the airport to both places. There is also an option to reach Jammu by rail. Private and government buses and taxis are available from Jammu to Pahalgam (254 km) and Baltal (372 km). Since Jammu and Srinagar are connected by road, they can be reached by private vehicle from major cities in the country, including Delhi and Chandigarh.

Accommodation: Accommodation is available in many hotels, guesthouses, and inns. Tents are arranged for night stay near Baltal, Pahalgam, Sheshnag, Panchtarani, and Holy Cave during the Yatra. Rs 250/- to Rs 375/- per person to stay in the tent facility provided by the state tourism department. Rs 400/- at Seshnag, Rs 500/- at Panchtarani, and the rate of stay at the holy cave is Rs 750/-. Accommodation in Langar is provided free of charge. During the yatra, there is no cost as the social service organizations arrange for the provision of food. There is a cloak room facility for storing luggage near Baltal and Holy Cave.

Weather Conditions: The weather in the region can be harsh, with freezing temperatures even in the summer. It’s important to pack appropriate clothing to stay warm, including layers, warm jackets, and thermal wear.

Acclimatization: Due to the high altitude of the Amarnath Cave (about 3,888 meters or 12,756 feet), it’s essential to acclimatize yourself to prevent altitude sickness. Spend a day or two at a lower altitude before starting your trek.

Registration: Pilgrims are required to register at the base camp before starting the journey to the cave. Ensure you have all the necessary permits and documentation. The early-bird registration process is mandatory for convenience-security travel. Pilgrims have to obtain a physical fitness certificate from a doctor and register at www.shriamarnathjishrine.com. The registration process starts in mid-March of the year.

Trekking Route: Be familiar with the route and the trekking conditions. The path can be steep and challenging, so it’s best to be physically prepared for the journey.

Guides and porters: Hiring a local guide or porter can be very helpful, especially if you are not experienced with high-altitude treks. They can assist with carrying your belongings and provide valuable guidance.

Health Precautions: Consult with a medical professional before your trip to ensure you are physically fit for the journey. Carry necessary medications and a first-aid kit.

Pack Essentials: Bring essentials such as water, snacks, a flashlight, spare batteries, a raincoat, and a walking stick. Mobile network coverage is often limited in the region, so communication may be unreliable.

Respect Local Customs: The Amarnath Cave is a sacred site, so respect the customs and traditions of the local people. Do not litter or damage the environment.

Tent Accommodations: Many pilgrims stay in tents during their journey. Make sure you have a reliable tent and sleeping bag to stay warm and comfortable.

Food and Water: Be cautious about the food and water you consume. It’s advisable to carry packaged drinking water and ready-to-eat meals to ensure your safety and health.

Emergency Contacts: Know the emergency contact numbers for local authorities and medical services. Share your itinerary with family or friends so they can reach you in case of an emergency.

Respect the Natural Environment: Be responsible and eco-friendly. Do not harm the local flora and fauna, and dispose of waste properly.

Limited Facilities: Keep in mind that facilities at the Amarnath Cave are limited. Basic amenities like restrooms and accommodations may be quite rudimentary.

Devotional Practices: If you’re visiting for religious purposes, be prepared for the rituals and practices associated with the pilgrimage. Respect the sanctity of the cave and its significance.

Travel in Groups: Whenever possible, travel with a group, as there is safety in numbers and assistance is readily available in case of any unforeseen circumstances.

• There is a facility for instant registration at the starting point of the journey. However, pre-registration is imperative, as admission depends on the exact number of pilgrims.
• In addition to warm clothes covering your head and feet, carry a wind cheater, torch, waterproof shoes, walking stick, and necessary medical kit.

Conclusion

Amarnath Yatra is not just a physical journey; it is a transformative experience that connects devotees with the divine. The annual pilgrimage to the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam is a testament to the unwavering faith of countless pilgrims who brave the elements and challenging terrain for a glimpse of Lord Shiva’s manifestation. As the Divine Ice Shiva Lingam waxes and wanes, it symbolizes the cyclical nature of life and the eternal presence of the divine in the heart of the Himalayas. Amarnath Yatra is not just a pilgrimage; it is a spiritual sojourn that leaves an indelible mark on the souls of those who undertake it.

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